Ilha do Caju & Delta das Americas
Ilha do Caju – Delta das Americas, Brazilian Northeast.
“Laid-back” was an expression invented with the Brazilians in mind and to maximize this unique atmosphere it’s best to adopt a similar attitude while you’re there. “Tudo feito na hora” they say in the great restaurants you can find with a little bit of local knowledge. “Everything made on the hour” is supposed to mean “straight away” but they cover themselves by not saying which hour! Fresh grilled fish like you’ve never tasted before, but you might want to take advantage of the hammocks in the shade outside while you wait. Drink the “Brahma” local beer chilled to near freezing while you’re swinging in that hammock. You might even want to order a plate of prawns to go with it to keep you going while cook does whatever he does which takes so long to grill a fish.
This is the way to go throughout the Brazilian Northeast but especially so on Ilha do Caju – Cashew Island, in the Delta das Americas. Don’t let the disclaimer you sign when you arrive put you off. OK, so you’re a million miles from the nearest medical care but it’s worth it for the experience. This privately owned eco-reserve is a mixture of what first looks like the comfort you would associate with the four-poster beds provided in the simple but tasteful semi-detached chalets but which soon turns into a closer contact with nature than you might have anticipated.
Chalet & Four poster bed Ilha do Caju
Expect to share your brown-water shower (don’t worry - just high iron content in the water pumped straight from the spring) with several different species of frogs, 15 centimetre centipedes and giant flying jungle cockroaches. Not as repulsive as those you might find under your sink at home but they should be dealt with in the same manner, although one swing with your flip-flop might not be enough. Rustic is the word and don’t expect any urban comforts.
Fishing with a traditional "tarrafa" in the Parnaiba River
Getting to Ilha do Caju is simple enough by “lancha voadeira” – a speed boat service or on a more leisurely “chalana” both available from Porto dos Tatus to take you on the one to three hour trip up the River Parnaíba depending on the option chosen. If you prefer to get there faster in the speedboat, travel lightly as space is very limited. Leave as much as you can in Parnaíba, as this is where you’ll probably be based. There’s also only one place to stay on Ilha do Caju and booking everything in advance is essential. www.ilhadocaju.com.br In fact, the number of visitors is limited by law and the maximum at any time is 28, however, even in high season you can expect the place more or less to yourself. Their site, which is only presently available in Portuguese, advises you to be “spiritually and physically prepared”! Children under 15 are not allowed.
Leisurely "chalana"
The best accommodation is in one of the six chalets which are more spacious and set a little way from the main farmhouse. They are divided into 2 separate living spaces to house 2 couples and have nothing in the way of sound proofing. It is quite possible to have a perfectly coherent conversation with the couple next door.
The total population of this 100 km2 island is only 50. Ownership is still in the hands of the Brazilian descendents of an English entrepreneur, James Frederick Clark, who married into local society in the mid 19th century.
Mika catching river crabs
You’ll be welcomed by Dona Rosa, who looks like she just stepped out of a “telenovela”, the soap operas the Brazilians love and export around the world. She’s the lady who presents you with the disclaimer where you acknowledge that you are aware of the risks, which to be honest aren’t that great. Stay away from the smallish Caymans which can be seen wandering around and avoid falling off your horse and you’ll be ok. Take lots of repellent though because the “muriçocas” are quite single-minded. The best translation for muriçoca would be “extremely determined mosquito with a hardened steel sucking device capable of penetrating the best cloth Levi Strauss manufacture”. Yes, they can bite clean through your 501s. The muriçocas only come out at night though, so during the day you needn’t worry. The bats you might find in your room will apparently be doing you a favour by dining on the muriçocas which were planning to dine on you. Certainly more environmentally friendly than a can of insecticide.
The island opposite - no foliage so mosquito free. At night, fishermen throw tarpaulins over these structures and sleep bite free
In fact, the state government is attempting to keep this area as pure as nature intended and the Second World War truck which picks you up at the rather inappropriately named Porto Grande, which in fact is just a bit of beach where the track can be found to take you to the accommodation, will soon be a thing of the past. The aim is to ensure the island is in the pristine state nature intended and that it has no forms of possible pollution whatsoever, including the one piece of motorized transport which exists. At the moment, electricity is still provided, although only at night and stops when the diesel runs out.
"Porto Grande" and transport to your chalet
The great horse rides along the beach, swimming in the natural pools, kayaking, nature walks, a hike to the observation platform to see the king vultures in flight with a great view of the island and a twilight visit by lancha voadeira to visit the nearby Ilha das Guarás – Flamingo Island, are all activities to be recommended, but a few days here will probably be enough for most people.
Observation platform and King Vultures
The guarás or flamingos feed further out in the delta and come home late afternoon to their otherwise uninhabited island. The young birds are black as the effect of their crab diet hasn’t kicked in yet. Adults are an incredible orange-red colour which is enhanced by the setting sun and the sight of thousands of them settling in the trees for the night is worth the trip back up the winding delta in total darkness. You won’t be able to see your Nikon in front of your face but the boat man must be part feline as he navigates without apparent difficulty.
Guaras - Flamingos - returning to their island at dusk
This is about as far away from it all as it gets, and is a genuine insight into the simple life that urban living no longer permits. An atmosphere where there is great opportunity for real contact, not only with nature but with other travellers and residents who drop in, because when the sun goes down as it does every day at 6.00 pm, after-dinner conversation is one of the few options but a great way to end the day.
More images available in "Brazil" Portfolio
“Laid-back” was an expression invented with the Brazilians in mind and to maximize this unique atmosphere it’s best to adopt a similar attitude while you’re there. “Tudo feito na hora” they say in the great restaurants you can find with a little bit of local knowledge. “Everything made on the hour” is supposed to mean “straight away” but they cover themselves by not saying which hour! Fresh grilled fish like you’ve never tasted before, but you might want to take advantage of the hammocks in the shade outside while you wait. Drink the “Brahma” local beer chilled to near freezing while you’re swinging in that hammock. You might even want to order a plate of prawns to go with it to keep you going while cook does whatever he does which takes so long to grill a fish.
This is the way to go throughout the Brazilian Northeast but especially so on Ilha do Caju – Cashew Island, in the Delta das Americas. Don’t let the disclaimer you sign when you arrive put you off. OK, so you’re a million miles from the nearest medical care but it’s worth it for the experience. This privately owned eco-reserve is a mixture of what first looks like the comfort you would associate with the four-poster beds provided in the simple but tasteful semi-detached chalets but which soon turns into a closer contact with nature than you might have anticipated.
Chalet & Four poster bed Ilha do Caju
Expect to share your brown-water shower (don’t worry - just high iron content in the water pumped straight from the spring) with several different species of frogs, 15 centimetre centipedes and giant flying jungle cockroaches. Not as repulsive as those you might find under your sink at home but they should be dealt with in the same manner, although one swing with your flip-flop might not be enough. Rustic is the word and don’t expect any urban comforts.
Fishing with a traditional "tarrafa" in the Parnaiba RiverGetting to Ilha do Caju is simple enough by “lancha voadeira” – a speed boat service or on a more leisurely “chalana” both available from Porto dos Tatus to take you on the one to three hour trip up the River Parnaíba depending on the option chosen. If you prefer to get there faster in the speedboat, travel lightly as space is very limited. Leave as much as you can in Parnaíba, as this is where you’ll probably be based. There’s also only one place to stay on Ilha do Caju and booking everything in advance is essential. www.ilhadocaju.com.br In fact, the number of visitors is limited by law and the maximum at any time is 28, however, even in high season you can expect the place more or less to yourself. Their site, which is only presently available in Portuguese, advises you to be “spiritually and physically prepared”! Children under 15 are not allowed.
Leisurely "chalana"
The best accommodation is in one of the six chalets which are more spacious and set a little way from the main farmhouse. They are divided into 2 separate living spaces to house 2 couples and have nothing in the way of sound proofing. It is quite possible to have a perfectly coherent conversation with the couple next door.
The total population of this 100 km2 island is only 50. Ownership is still in the hands of the Brazilian descendents of an English entrepreneur, James Frederick Clark, who married into local society in the mid 19th century.
Mika catching river crabs
You’ll be welcomed by Dona Rosa, who looks like she just stepped out of a “telenovela”, the soap operas the Brazilians love and export around the world. She’s the lady who presents you with the disclaimer where you acknowledge that you are aware of the risks, which to be honest aren’t that great. Stay away from the smallish Caymans which can be seen wandering around and avoid falling off your horse and you’ll be ok. Take lots of repellent though because the “muriçocas” are quite single-minded. The best translation for muriçoca would be “extremely determined mosquito with a hardened steel sucking device capable of penetrating the best cloth Levi Strauss manufacture”. Yes, they can bite clean through your 501s. The muriçocas only come out at night though, so during the day you needn’t worry. The bats you might find in your room will apparently be doing you a favour by dining on the muriçocas which were planning to dine on you. Certainly more environmentally friendly than a can of insecticide.
The island opposite - no foliage so mosquito free. At night, fishermen throw tarpaulins over these structures and sleep bite free
In fact, the state government is attempting to keep this area as pure as nature intended and the Second World War truck which picks you up at the rather inappropriately named Porto Grande, which in fact is just a bit of beach where the track can be found to take you to the accommodation, will soon be a thing of the past. The aim is to ensure the island is in the pristine state nature intended and that it has no forms of possible pollution whatsoever, including the one piece of motorized transport which exists. At the moment, electricity is still provided, although only at night and stops when the diesel runs out.
"Porto Grande" and transport to your chalet
The great horse rides along the beach, swimming in the natural pools, kayaking, nature walks, a hike to the observation platform to see the king vultures in flight with a great view of the island and a twilight visit by lancha voadeira to visit the nearby Ilha das Guarás – Flamingo Island, are all activities to be recommended, but a few days here will probably be enough for most people.
Observation platform and King Vultures
The guarás or flamingos feed further out in the delta and come home late afternoon to their otherwise uninhabited island. The young birds are black as the effect of their crab diet hasn’t kicked in yet. Adults are an incredible orange-red colour which is enhanced by the setting sun and the sight of thousands of them settling in the trees for the night is worth the trip back up the winding delta in total darkness. You won’t be able to see your Nikon in front of your face but the boat man must be part feline as he navigates without apparent difficulty.
Guaras - Flamingos - returning to their island at dusk
This is about as far away from it all as it gets, and is a genuine insight into the simple life that urban living no longer permits. An atmosphere where there is great opportunity for real contact, not only with nature but with other travellers and residents who drop in, because when the sun goes down as it does every day at 6.00 pm, after-dinner conversation is one of the few options but a great way to end the day.
More images available in "Brazil" Portfolio
